Most of the cylinders could be firing at the same time, although they should not be unless the base timing is off. That definitely could blow the fuse and could be the explanation of the intermittent high amp draw. Well I’ll be, 8 amps times 8 cylinders equals 64 amps. I cranked the engine and monitored the amperage draw. I hooked the inductive amp clamp around one of the wires. I removed the tape and separated the wires. What in the world could it be? I decided to start checking the coils for amperage draw individually. I retested and the same thing happened again. I found an ignition capacitor on the passenger inner fender and disconnected it. I checked the diagrams and found that the fuse shown below would eliminate the O2 sensor heaters so I removed it. I shut the engine off and checked all of the basic wiring around the injectors and coils. This was about the strangest thing I had ever seen.
They came back down after getting over 2000 rpms. The amps jumped up to about 25 amps, so I gave it a little gas to get the rpms up again and the amps started spiking to 60 + amps. I monitored amp draw while running and everything seemed okay until the idle speed came down below 1500 rpms. I cranked the engine and the engine fired up and ran okay but not real good. I installed a 30 amp circuit breaker in its place and tested the amp load on the circuit by hooking the inductive amp clamp from my tester around one of the jumper wires. I started by removing the blown 30 amp ASD relay fuse. To do my job I of course had to go back through every thing that might have been checked. The other shop said that they had checked all of their work and could find no place where they might have shorted out any wiring. A new problem had developed though in that the ASD relay fuse in the under hood fuse box would blow sometimes and the engine did not run great. The truck had come to them with a head gasket leak, which they had already fixed. EIther a sticking caliper or brake hose problem.This 2001 Doge Durango with a 4.7 liter V8 was sent to me from another shop. What’s caused the rear right wheel of my 2000 M元20 to lock/seize.The other 3 wheels are OK.Sounds like the brake is locking up. With new brakes, and either resurfacing or replacing rotors you could be looking at anywhere from $200 to $400. Sometimes a resurfacing can fix the problem, but if it is severe, you may need replacement rotors or drums.
Pulsation while braking means that you have one or more brake rotors or drums that are either warped or worn out. Sounds good, and you’re welcome! I’m sure it will be fun after it’s all done and riding high! Thanks for the reassurance and honestly I will probably pay a shop just because its suspension and I want the kids to be safe. It’s about a whole day worth of work, but not entirely bad to do the job. Don’t stretch any wiring harnesses, be careful of brake lines, etc. There are many kits available, you just have to be sure to do it right. You have the older body style, 88-98 models were fairly easy to add a lift kit to. Hello, I have a 19 Z71 and I am getting mixed answers from people about the ability to add a lift kit? Is it the same as any 4X4 Gm lift? It is possible they damaged a sensor during replacement.
Would taking off the battery cable maybe help?ĭisconnecting the battery may help, but it may erase any codes stored in the ABS computer that the repair shop would need to help diagnose the problem. Also when I turn the motor off and restart it the lights go off. I didn’t do the job myself it was done at a garage. Is it possible you damaged a sensor on the transfer case during replacement? Accidentally banged something? No, that should have nothing to do with the ABS light. Yes, between the transfer case and front differential.
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